A Visit to Bromley Hall in Poplar, Tower Hamletsby Peter AlabasterA mile to the north of the Isle of Dogs in London lies a vast meadow covered with the yellow-flowering shrub known as broom. Through this meadow flows the River Lea with its crystal-clear waters and abundance of fish. On the desolate marshland along the east bank of the river, a newly-built moated manor-house called Lower Bramberley can be seen. The name is derived from broom (or bramble), and lea, a meadow, and in this house the king's chamberlain Ralph Triket and his wife Lady Ida Triket hold court. The year is 1180 and the king is Richard I, known as 'the lion-hearted'. By 1292, the lordship of the manor had passed to the Prior and Canons of Holy Trinity, Aldgate. In the following 200 years, Lower Bramberly has gone and a new, red-brick house has risen on its foundations. This is Bromley Hall, the manor house of the Lower Manor of Bromley, and tree-ring analysis has established the date at around 1485. The Wars of the Roses has ended and, with King Henry VII on the throne, the Tudor period has begun. An early occupant is John Blount, whose main claim to fame appears to be that his daughter Elizabeth will one day be the mistress of King Henry VIII. In the 1530's the house is seized by the Crown. After remodelling, it becomes the home of Viscount Rochford, brother of Ann Boleyn and therefore brother-in-law to that very same Henry VIII. Later, in 1603 (and this is where it gets really exciting, or at least fairly exciting), a visitor is admitted to the house.
He may even have lodged there for a while, possibly at the king's expense. The king is, of course, James I of England,
aka King James VI of Scotland (please try to keep up with the royal name-dropping). The visitor, Thomas Alabaster
(c1550-1624), is involved in top-secret espionage. By the early 1990's, Bromley Hall had become derelict and in danger of being demolished. Dry rot and damp had taken hold, many 16th-century oak floorboards had been covered with tarmac, and walls had been lined with cement and hardboard. Immediate action had to be taken to save this historical building for local people and the nation. Fund-raising from many sources, including English Heritage, raised over a million pounds. The work was
project-managed by Leaside Regeneration Ltd, and after much hard work the restoration is now complete. The chief executive of Leaside Regeneration, Paul Brickell, came across references to our Thomas while researching the history of Bromley Hall. He bought copies of Adrian Alabaster's and Tony Springall's books and was pleased to have his information confirmed. He invited Laraine and anyone else in the Alabaster Society to visit the Hall. And so it came to pass that, at precisely 2:30 pm on the afternoon of Thursday 14 February 2008, a deputation of loyal and stout members of said Society met at Bromley-by-Bow tube station. Laraine, Tony and Pam, Michael William and Peter walked along the busy, noisy and polluted A12, also known as the Blackwall Tunnel Northern Approach Road, towards Bromley Hall, delightfully situated about two metres from the southbound lane of the A12. On the way, we looked out for any surviving remnants of the original meadow but can report that, in this run-down area of East London, there are no stretches of open, broom-covered land to be seen. Paul was waiting to take us on a guided tour of the Hall. He is a very knowledgeable, enthusiastic and friendly person and was happy to answer all our questions. As we entered the Hall unobserved through the back door, we realised that we were almost certainly the first members of the Alabaster family to visit the house for 405 years. Many original features were discovered during the building work. These were conserved and can now be viewed. We saw a recently uncovered 15th-century carved oak door frame with a hunting scene (a hound chasing a deer), the remains of a stone-encased spiral staircase, wood wall beams and brickwork, wall paintings, and more. We ended the tour in what was the Main Hall and now serves as the boardroom for Leaside Regeneration. It is called the Blount Room. Set into the floorboards is a glass panel through which can be seen a brick-arched cellar from the original 12th-century house. Also in this room are the remains of a 15th-century wall painting. It appears to be the back view of a man holding a bow and wearing a Tudor hat. Sadly, his right hip and leg have been amputated by the insertion of a Georgian fireplace. Above this, a Tudor window has been bricked up, and supporting the ceiling there is an impressive array of heavy oak beams. Looking out of the window we could see a constant stream of speeding, polluting traffic only two or three metres away. Thomas would have had a landscape of broom-covered meadow with marshy bits here and there, a little-used track leading into London, and fresh air. I think he had the better deal.
But could this be the room where Thomas wrote his letters to Cecil? At the end of the tour, Paul left us alone in the Blount Room with refreshments kindly supplied by Vicki, his PA (who also organised our visit). This was our opportunity to search for any ink stains, bits of parchment, quill pens or any other evidence that may have survived the centuries, but we found nothing. And so we left Bromley Hall. Later, I sent a thank-you card to Paul on behalf of the 'Bromley Five'. I had one request - that he please arrange for Bromley Hall to be moved away from the A12. As we drove to the Alabaster Gathering in April from our home in south London, Chris and I passed Bromley Hall and I was disappointed to see it still in its original position. We are now working on Plan B - moving the A12 away from Bromley Hall. To Contents
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Thomas Alabaster at Bromley Hall in 1603by Tony Springall
Over the following centuries the hall, and its environs, changed beyond recognition. Although the hall was listed, it became unloved and, because of layers of erstwhile fashionable shrouds, thought to be later than its true date. The area around the hall became the grimy industrial heart of East London and the hall sat next to the approach road to the Blackwell tunnel. As you have just read, nearly four hundred and five years after Thomas, five members of The Alabaster Society gazed at the newly discovered remains of the hunting scene and admired the hall's other rediscovered treasures. They had been invited to the hall by Paul Brickell, Chairman of Leaside Regeneration Ltd, the agency which, during renovation, had discovered the secret heart of the dilapidated edifice During August and September 1603, Thomas wrote three letters from Bromley Hall to Sir Robert Cecil. All three were concerned with intelligence from the Continent. These are the only records which directly associate Thomas with Bromley Hall and they raise two tantalizing questions. Why was Thomas staying at the hall and what was his relationship with it? In 1603, due to its isolation, the hall was an ideal place to find refuge. It is unlikely that Thomas would have needed to hide from creditors as his financial troubles did not materialise until the following year. Perhaps he was hiding from something more fearsome. Paul Brickell suggested that he was staying at Bromley Hall to escape the plague. The plague was endemic in London during the 16th and 17th centuries but it became epidemic every few decades - in 1563, 1593, 1603, 1625 and 1665. At first sight, this seems a possible explanation. A closer examination only strengthens the likelihood that this explanation is correct (1). For all the above plague years (with the possible exception of 1665) London parish burial records show that the large, congested and poor parish of St Botolph without Bishopsgate was the first parish to be affected and that it was some time before the last parish was affected. This 'slow fuse' gave affluent inhabitants of other parishes sufficient warning to escape the city. In 1603, St Botolph without Bishopsgate showed increased burials in the first week of June. In this year the last parish to peak in its burials, St Mary Somerset, did so in the week of 17th September. The epidemic petered out by the middle of November and it is estimated that from the middle of July until the middle of November 17% of the population of London was buried (2). If Thomas was fleeing from the plague, it is likely that he, his wife and step-family were resident in Bromley Hall for the entire Summer and Autumn of 1603. This matches the dates of the letters well. Under what basis was Thomas staying at the hall? Was it owned by a friend? Was he renting it? Did he own it? Bromley Hall, with its manor, was seized by Henry VIII from the Holy Trinity Priory, Aldgate, in 1531-2 at the first phase of the dissolution of the monastaries and, until 1606, the Crown leased it out to a succession of affluent individuals. The primary lessees frequently sub-let the property. Although the names of many of these lessees are known from before about 1590, the lessee and his tenants from then until 1606 are not. Until this gap in knowledge is filled, it is impossible to establish under what basis Thomas was staying at the Hall. What is clear is that Thomas was familar with the Bromley Hall area as early as 1598. In that year he was a party to a land transaction involving property called Guyse close to Bromley Hall on the other side of the River Lea. The exact nature of Thomas' involvement is unknown as the original document appears lost (3). Thomas's stepson, Richard Edwards, whom Thomas brought up from about the age of 10, was also familar with the area, owning, via trustees, one quarter part of Bromley manor on his death in 1636 (4). Of course this familiarity with the area may well just be coincidental, as is certainly the fact that Bromley hall was owned in the 1550s by William Cecil, the father of the man to whom Thomas was writing the letters on 1603. Is it also a coincidence that the hall reverted to the Crown in 1606, the very year in which Thomas gained protection from his creditors 'to endure untill his Ma[jes]ty Shallbe satisfied of such debte as are owing to him by the said Alabaster' (5)? Regretably, we have inadequate information to decide the nature of Thomas' tenure in 1603 but it is gratifying that an important Tudor building, especially to those of Alabaster descent, will survive into future centuries. Notes: To Contents |
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